/* Article-only design: original fonts, colours, photography and illustrations. */
.journal-page{--journal-width:1120px}.journal-page .container{width:min(var(--journal-width),calc(100% - 96px))}.journal-crumb{display:flex;flex-wrap:wrap;gap:8px;font-size:14px;color:var(--muted);padding-top:28px;margin-bottom:40px}.journal-crumb a{text-decoration:underline;text-underline-offset:4px}.journal-heading{display:flex;justify-content:space-between;align-items:center;gap:36px;margin-bottom:32px}.journal-heading h1{font-size:44px;line-height:1.45;margin:0 0 24px}.journal-heading p{font-size:17px;line-height:1.9;margin-bottom:0}.journal-heading .journal-kicker,.journal-kicker{font-size:14px;color:var(--green);letter-spacing:.08em;margin-bottom:16px}.journal-doodle{width:96px;height:auto;margin-right:36px;flex-shrink:0}.journal-demo{font-size:13px;line-height:1.7;color:#5b6862;border-left:2px solid #b7c4bc;padding:0 0 0 12px;margin:0 0 28px}.journal-filters{display:flex;flex-wrap:wrap;gap:12px 30px;border-top:1px solid var(--line);border-bottom:1px solid var(--line);padding:10px 0}.journal-filters a{min-height:44px;padding:10px 0;font-size:16px}.journal-filters a[aria-current]{color:var(--green);box-shadow:0 2px var(--green)}.journal-count{display:flex;align-items:center;gap:16px;font-size:16px;margin:30px 0 24px}.journal-count span{font-size:14px;color:var(--muted)}.journal-grid{display:grid;grid-template-columns:repeat(3,minmax(0,1fr));gap:32px}.journal-card{min-width:0}.journal-card>a{display:flex;height:100%;flex-direction:column;text-decoration:none}.journal-card>a>img{width:100%;height:auto;aspect-ratio:1.45;object-fit:cover;margin-bottom:22px}.journal-meta{display:flex;flex-wrap:wrap;gap:8px 14px;color:var(--green);font-size:14px;line-height:1.7;margin-bottom:14px}.journal-meta span+span{border-left:1px solid #b7c4bc;padding-left:14px}.journal-card h3{font-family:ZenOld,serif;font-size:25px;line-height:1.65;margin-bottom:16px;letter-spacing:.015em}.journal-card p{font-size:16px;line-height:1.9;color:#4a574f;margin-bottom:22px}.journal-read{display:flex;align-items:center;justify-content:space-between;margin-top:auto;border-bottom:1px solid #9dad9f;padding:10px 0;font-size:16px;color:var(--green);min-height:44px}.journal-card>a:hover .journal-read,.journal-index-link:hover{text-decoration:underline;text-underline-offset:5px}.journal-archive{font-size:14px;margin:36px 0 0}.journal-archive a{text-decoration:underline;text-underline-offset:5px}.journal-bottom{border-top:1px solid var(--line);margin-top:80px!important;padding-top:48px;margin-bottom:80px!important}.journal-bottom h2{font-size:32px;margin-bottom:16px}.journal-bottom p{font-size:17px}.essay-heading{max-width:820px;margin:40px auto}.essay-heading h1{font-size:44px;line-height:1.5;letter-spacing:.025em;margin:22px 0 26px}.essay-heading>p{font-size:18px;line-height:1.95;max-width:38em;margin-bottom:0}.essay-cover{margin:0}.essay-cover img{width:100%;height:auto;aspect-ratio:2.1;object-fit:cover}.essay-cover figcaption,.essay-body figcaption{font-size:12px;color:var(--muted);margin-top:10px}.essay-layout{display:grid;grid-template-columns:240px minmax(0,680px);gap:80px;justify-content:space-between;margin-top:64px!important}.essay-aside{font-size:14px;padding-top:10px;align-self:start}.essay-aside>p,.essay-aside nav>p{font-size:16px;margin-bottom:20px}.essay-aside dl{margin:0 0 36px}.essay-aside dl>div{border-top:1px solid var(--line);padding:14px 0}.essay-aside dt{color:var(--muted);font-size:13px;margin-bottom:6px}.essay-aside dd{margin:0;font-size:15px}.essay-aside nav a{display:block;padding:11px 0;line-height:1.8;color:var(--green);text-decoration:underline;text-underline-offset:4px;min-height:44px}.essay-body{min-width:0}.essay-body section{scroll-margin-top:32px;margin-bottom:60px}.essay-body .essay-number{font-family:ZenOld,serif;color:var(--green);font-size:18px;line-height:1.5;margin-bottom:10px}.essay-body h2{font-size:30px;line-height:1.65;letter-spacing:.02em;margin-bottom:26px}.essay-body p{font-size:17px;line-height:2;margin-bottom:24px}.essay-body figure{margin:34px 0 0}.essay-body figure img{height:auto;width:100%;aspect-ratio:1.6;object-fit:cover}.essay-body .essay-plan{border-top:1px solid #9dad9f;padding-top:34px;margin-bottom:0}.essay-plan h2{margin-bottom:8px}.essay-body .essay-plan-note{font-size:14px;color:var(--muted);margin-bottom:26px}.essay-plan ol{list-style:none;padding:0;margin:0 0 24px}.essay-plan li{display:grid;grid-template-columns:140px 1fr;gap:24px;padding:20px 0;border-top:1px solid var(--line)}.essay-plan li>span{color:var(--green);font-size:14px;line-height:1.9}.essay-plan li p{margin:0;font-size:16px;line-height:1.9}.essay-body .essay-note{font-size:14px;line-height:1.9;color:var(--muted);margin:0}.essay-stay{display:grid;grid-template-columns:1fr 1fr;gap:48px;align-items:center;border-top:1px solid var(--line);border-bottom:1px solid var(--line);padding:48px 0;margin-top:80px!important}.essay-stay img{aspect-ratio:1.5;object-fit:cover;height:auto}.essay-stay h2{font-size:28px;line-height:1.6;margin-bottom:20px}.essay-stay p{font-size:16px;line-height:1.9}.essay-stay .journal-kicker{font-size:14px}.essay-all-stays{display:block;width:fit-content;margin-top:18px;min-height:44px;padding:8px 0;font-size:15px;color:var(--green);text-decoration:underline;text-underline-offset:5px}.essay-related{margin-top:72px!important;margin-bottom:88px!important}.related-heading{display:flex;justify-content:space-between;align-items:baseline;gap:24px;margin-bottom:30px}.related-heading h2{font-size:32px;margin:0}.related-heading>a{font-size:16px;min-height:44px;padding:10px 0;text-decoration:underline;text-underline-offset:5px}.related-grid{grid-template-columns:repeat(2,minmax(0,1fr))}.related-grid .journal-card>a>img{aspect-ratio:1.8}.journal-index-link{display:block;width:fit-content;margin:32px 0 0 auto;border-bottom:1px solid var(--green);padding:12px 0;min-height:44px;font-size:16px;color:var(--green)}.home-travel .journal-heading h2{margin-bottom:18px}.home-travel .journal-heading p{font-size:17px}.home-travel .journal-demo{font-size:13px}
@media(max-width:1000px){.journal-grid{gap:24px}.journal-card h3{font-size:22px}.essay-layout{grid-template-columns:200px minmax(0,1fr);gap:40px}.essay-stay{gap:30px}.essay-stay h2{font-size:24px}}
@media(max-width:760px){.journal-page .container{width:calc(100% - 40px)}.journal-crumb{padding-top:20px;margin-bottom:28px;font-size:13px}.journal-heading{gap:20px;margin-bottom:26px}.journal-heading h1{font-size:30px;margin-bottom:18px}.journal-heading p{font-size:16px}.journal-doodle{width:58px;margin-right:0;align-self:flex-start;margin-top:16px}.journal-heading .journal-kicker{font-size:13px;margin-bottom:10px}.journal-demo{font-size:12px;line-height:1.8;margin-bottom:24px}.journal-filters{gap:6px 22px}.journal-filters a{font-size:14px}.journal-grid,.related-grid{grid-template-columns:1fr;gap:40px}.journal-card>a>img{aspect-ratio:1.55;margin-bottom:18px}.journal-card h3{font-size:26px;line-height:1.6;margin-bottom:14px}.journal-card p{font-size:16px;margin-bottom:16px}.journal-meta{font-size:13px;margin-bottom:12px}.journal-count{margin:24px 0 20px}.journal-bottom{margin-top:48px!important;padding-top:32px;margin-bottom:48px!important}.journal-bottom h2{font-size:26px}.essay-heading{margin:28px 0}.essay-heading h1{font-size:32px;line-height:1.55;margin:18px 0 22px}.essay-heading>p{font-size:16px;line-height:1.95}.essay-cover img{aspect-ratio:1.3}.essay-layout{display:block;margin-top:32px!important}.essay-aside{padding:0 0 26px;margin-bottom:36px;border-bottom:1px solid var(--line)}.essay-aside dl{display:grid;grid-template-columns:1fr 1fr;gap:0 24px;margin-bottom:24px}.essay-aside dl>div:last-child{grid-column:1/-1}.essay-aside>p,.essay-aside nav>p{margin-bottom:12px}.essay-aside nav a{padding:8px 0;min-height:44px}.essay-body h2{font-size:25px;line-height:1.6;margin-bottom:22px}.essay-body p{font-size:16px;line-height:1.95;margin-bottom:22px}.essay-body section{margin-bottom:44px}.essay-plan li{grid-template-columns:1fr;gap:7px;padding:17px 0}.essay-stay{grid-template-columns:1fr;gap:26px;padding:32px 0;margin-top:48px!important}.essay-stay h2{font-size:24px}.essay-stay .button{width:100%;font-size:16px}.essay-related{margin-top:48px!important;margin-bottom:56px!important}.related-heading{align-items:flex-start;flex-direction:column;gap:12px;margin-bottom:24px}.related-heading h2{font-size:26px}.related-grid .journal-card>a>img{aspect-ratio:1.55}.home-travel .journal-heading p{font-size:16px}.home-travel .journal-heading h2{font-size:28px}.journal-index-link{margin-top:24px}.journal-card h3 br{display:block}}
@media(prefers-reduced-motion:reduce){.journal-page{scroll-behavior:auto}}
@media(max-width:760px){.essay-heading h1{font-size:clamp(23px,7vw,28px)}.journal-heading{position:relative;display:block;padding-right:0}.journal-heading h1,.journal-heading h2{padding-right:68px}.journal-heading .journal-doodle{position:absolute;right:0;top:14px;width:50px;margin:0}.journal-heading p{max-width:100%}.journal-card h3{font-size:clamp(22px,6.5vw,26px)}}
/* Lead story on the left, two supporting stories on the right; filters on demand. */
.journal-index .container{width:min(1360px,calc(100% - 96px))}
.explore{padding-top:32px}
.explore-heading{display:flex;align-items:center;justify-content:space-between;gap:20px;margin-bottom:30px;position:relative;z-index:2}
.explore-heading h1{font-size:28px;line-height:1.6;letter-spacing:.05em;margin:0;color:var(--green)}
.explore-filters{font-size:14px;color:var(--green);flex-shrink:0}
.explore-filters>summary{display:flex;align-items:center;gap:16px;cursor:pointer;list-style:none;min-height:44px;padding:6px 0 6px 12px}
.explore-filters>summary::-webkit-details-marker{display:none}
.explore-filters>summary:after{content:'+';font-size:23px;line-height:1;font-weight:400}
.explore-filters[open]>summary:after{content:'−'}
.journal-tools{position:absolute;right:0;top:calc(100% + 8px);width:min(380px,100%);background:#fff;box-shadow:0 8px 28px #263b2d18;border:1px solid var(--line);padding:22px;display:grid;gap:18px}
.journal-themes{display:flex;flex-wrap:wrap;gap:8px}
.journal-tools button{font:inherit;font-size:15px;line-height:1.6;min-height:44px;padding:8px 14px;border:1px solid #d7dfd8;background:white;color:var(--green);white-space:nowrap}
.journal-tools button[aria-pressed=true]{background:var(--green);border-color:var(--green);color:white}
.journal-area{display:flex;align-items:center;justify-content:space-between;gap:14px;font-size:14px}
.journal-area select{font:inherit;color:var(--green);background:#fff;border:1px solid #c5d1c9;border-radius:0;padding:8px 28px 8px 12px;min-height:44px;flex:1;max-width:220px}
.journal-more summary{cursor:pointer;min-height:44px;padding:10px 0}
.journal-more>div{display:flex;flex-wrap:wrap;gap:8px;margin-top:8px}
.explore-grid{display:grid;grid-template-columns:repeat(3,minmax(0,1fr));gap:32px 36px;align-items:start}
.explore-grid:not(.is-filtered) .explore-card:first-child{grid-column:span 2;grid-row:span 2}
.explore-grid:not(.is-filtered) .explore-card:first-child img{aspect-ratio:1.58;object-position:58% center}
.explore-grid:not(.is-filtered) .explore-card:first-child h2{font-size:30px;line-height:1.7}
.explore-grid:not(.is-filtered) .explore-card:first-child h2 br{display:none}
.explore-grid:not(.is-filtered) .explore-card:nth-child(2) img,.explore-grid:not(.is-filtered) .explore-card:nth-child(3) img{aspect-ratio:1.9}
.explore-grid:not(.is-filtered) .explore-card:nth-child(2) .explore-copy,.explore-grid:not(.is-filtered) .explore-card:nth-child(3) .explore-copy{padding-top:12px}
.explore-grid:not(.is-filtered) .explore-card:nth-child(2) h2,.explore-grid:not(.is-filtered) .explore-card:nth-child(3) h2{font-size:21px;line-height:1.65}
.explore-card{min-width:0}
.explore-card>a{display:block;color:var(--green);text-decoration:none}
.explore-card img{display:block;width:100%;height:auto;aspect-ratio:1.12;object-fit:cover;object-position:center;transition:opacity .3s}
.explore-card:first-child img{object-position:58% center}
.explore-copy{display:grid;grid-template-columns:minmax(0,1fr) 24px;gap:14px;padding:20px 0 0}
.explore-card h2{font-size:clamp(20px,1.8vw,26px);line-height:1.75;margin:0;letter-spacing:.025em}
.explore-arrow{font-size:22px;line-height:1.8;align-self:end;transition:transform .25s}
.explore-card>a:hover img{opacity:.92}
.explore-card>a:hover .explore-arrow{transform:translateX(4px)}
.explore-card>a:hover h2{text-decoration:underline;text-decoration-thickness:1px;text-underline-offset:6px}
.explore-card>a:focus-visible{outline-offset:7px}
.explore-status{font-size:14px;line-height:1.8;margin:0 0 22px;color:#526159}
.explore-empty{padding:40px 0 64px}
.explore-empty button{min-height:48px;border:1px solid var(--green);background:white;color:var(--green);padding:10px 22px;font-size:16px}
.explore [hidden]{display:none!important}
.explore-stays{display:flex;align-items:center;justify-content:space-between;gap:24px;margin-top:72px!important;margin-bottom:64px!important;padding-top:32px;border-top:1px solid var(--line)}
.explore-stays h2{font-size:24px;margin:0}
.journal-index .footer{margin-top:0}
@media(max-width:1100px){.journal-index .container{width:calc(100% - 64px)}.explore-grid{gap:36px 24px}.explore-copy{gap:6px}.explore-card h2{font-size:20px;letter-spacing:0}}
@media(max-width:850px){
 .explore-grid{grid-template-columns:repeat(2,minmax(0,1fr));gap:30px 24px}
 .explore-grid:not(.is-filtered) .explore-card:first-child{grid-column:1/-1;grid-row:auto}
 .explore-grid:not(.is-filtered) .explore-card:first-child img{aspect-ratio:1.65}
 .explore-grid:not(.is-filtered) .explore-card:nth-child(2) img,.explore-grid:not(.is-filtered) .explore-card:nth-child(3) img{aspect-ratio:1.45}
 .explore-card h2{font-size:23px}
}
@media(max-width:600px){
 .journal-index .container{width:calc(100% - 40px)}
 .explore{padding-top:18px}
 .explore-heading{gap:12px;margin-bottom:20px}
 .explore-heading h1{font-size:23px;letter-spacing:.02em}
 .explore-filters>summary{gap:10px;padding-left:6px;font-size:13px}
 .journal-tools{width:100%;padding:18px}
 .explore-grid{grid-template-columns:repeat(2,minmax(0,1fr));gap:30px 20px;align-items:stretch}
 .explore-grid:not(.is-filtered) .explore-card:nth-child(n+2)>a{display:flex;flex-direction:column;height:100%}
 .explore-grid:not(.is-filtered) .explore-card:first-child img{aspect-ratio:1.3}
 .explore-grid:not(.is-filtered) .explore-card:first-child h2{font-size:26px;line-height:1.65}
 .explore-grid:not(.is-filtered) .explore-card:first-child h2 br{display:initial}
 .explore-grid:not(.is-filtered) .explore-card:nth-child(n+2) img{aspect-ratio:1.15}
 .explore-grid:not(.is-filtered) .explore-card:nth-child(n+2) h2{font-size:18px;line-height:1.7;text-wrap:balance}
 .explore-grid:not(.is-filtered) .explore-card:nth-child(n+2) h2 br{display:none}
 .explore-grid:not(.is-filtered) .explore-card:nth-child(n+2) .explore-copy{grid-template-columns:1fr;grid-template-rows:1fr auto;gap:4px;flex:1}
 .explore-grid:not(.is-filtered) .explore-card:nth-child(n+2) .explore-arrow{justify-self:end;font-size:19px}
 .explore-grid.is-filtered{grid-template-columns:1fr}
 .explore-card img{aspect-ratio:1.45}
 .explore-copy{padding-top:15px;gap:16px}
 .explore-card h2{font-size:24px;line-height:1.65}
 .explore-stays{margin-top:48px!important;margin-bottom:44px!important;padding-top:28px;gap:16px}
 .explore-stays h2{font-size:20px}
 .explore-stays .button{font-size:16px;padding:10px 18px;gap:16px}
}
@media(max-width:360px){.explore-heading h1{font-size:21px}.explore-card h2{font-size:22px}.explore-grid:not(.is-filtered) .explore-card:first-child h2{font-size:23px}.explore-grid:not(.is-filtered) .explore-card:nth-child(n+2) h2{font-size:17px}.explore-stays{flex-direction:column;align-items:flex-start}}
@media(prefers-reduced-motion:reduce){.explore-card img,.explore-arrow{transition:none}}